....Because you're Gorge-ous

You might be wondering how we're surviving life under canvas and on top of the car, almost 2 weeks into our safari. There are definitely one or two downsides to the camping life, perhaps the biggest being the dust. We found when we got to the Karijini site that not only were we and the car already covered in a thickish layer of the red Pilbara, but that the site was made up of it too. So no respite where we could lay things out on grass, we just had to get used to it. We thought that the Karijini itself was so spectacular that when we were last there in 2005 we vowed to come back and spend more time, so that meant putting up with being a fetching shade of red - like everyone else. The showers were tepid at best, but by the 2nd day we worked it that we arrived back at camp while there was still enough heat in the sun to make this bearable (almost).

The other drawback to the Karijini was that it was 3 degrees C when we got up in the mornings - getting out of the cozy cocoon of duvet into the cold carapace of dusty clothes took almost more willpower than I was capable of. But here Nick's years of experience came to the fore, not so much camping experience as knowing that I could only be enticed outside by the early morning cuppa. Good on that man! There was a small bar and restaurant there which made it much easier to endure the cold cold evenings, and we were lucky enough to catch the whole of the stunning Olympics opening ceremony.

So not a good camping experience, but it really was worth it for the Karijini itself. Once the sun came up we enjoyed temperatures in the mid to high 20s, just perfect for walking and scrambling up and down the gorges. Or rather down and then up, as the Karijini is flat as you gaze into the distance, but has spectacular gorges plunging at your feet to a whole other world of trees, palms, waterfalls and pools. Some of the climbs down were almost vertical, but it was worth it for the landscape of fantastic colours, and the complete peace in the more remote spots. Nick's promise that it was easier climbing up than down proved to be true, and I'm pleased to say that there was no more mention of me taking a jump off a cliff (or as Nick more politely put it, abseiling).

In contrast to the National Park campsites, we've found that the places we've enjoyed staying at the most are on the working stations (livestock, not trains, we're not that desperate yet). Our favourite site so far was outside Exmouth at a sheep station where we were the only campers (3 caravans were plugged into power on the other side of a stand of trees) and had a vast vista of open bushland in front of us. And grass to camp on! At sunset we took a walk down the long red earth airstrip with countless wildflowers growing alongside it, and on the way back gathered brushwood for the campfire. We buried spuds to bake in the coals (something I haven't done since I was 10) and cooked our chops on top of the fire, and realised that camping is all about being a kid again. And of course we washed the meal down with lashings of Cab. Sav.

When planning the trip we did allow oursleves one or two luxuries - Nick's being a supply of Sharwoods mango chutney to feed his addiction, and mine fresh coffee, and Clinique factor 25 moistuiriser (both of course essentials rather than luxuries). However, after a rather disastrous experiement balancing mug and coffee filter on the sloping bonnet of the car (a definite design fault in the Prado I feel) I have had to lower my standards to instant coffee when actually travelling.

Now we're up in Broome enjoying a night in a motel (the best shower I've ever had), and after a night at the Bird Observatory will head up to Cape Levique, Aboriginal land and what the guide describes as 'a remote wilderness paradise' by the sea. Then it's on to spend a fortnight or so travelling the Gibb River Road - 4WD only. Easily one the of the best bits about camping has being able to decide what we want to do, change our minds, and not stick to a schedule. So far we've managed to see most of what we planned, but not necessarily in the order we originally thought. Another has been the people we've met - we've discovered Grey Nomads come in all sorts of guises, most are a decade or two older than us, but with a wealth of advice on the best campsites, and the places not to be missed, and we've enjoyed evening round campfires swapping stories.

Pics: Hammersley Gorge, Karajini

Millstream, Chichester National Park

Wildflowers at side of road: Sturt's Desert Pea (red)

Joffre Gorge, Karijini