We're now at the top of a peninsula but are amazed to find that we're still in mobile, and thus internet, contact. Cape Levique had been recommended by several people as one of the most beautiful spots in Australia, and it truly has lived up to its star billing. On the way up from Broome - only half of the 200 km was on dirt roads and so a much easier journey than we'd anticipated - we stopped off at the famed shell church in Beagle Bay. It was a Friday morning and we parked in front of the primary school where lessons were in progress at a table outside the Principal's office. As we and a group of others stepped into the church we realised a service for some of the schoolkids was in progress. Three tiny kids in school uniform but bare feet were given rewards of red footballs for clearing up litter (without being asked to). Then a young visiting African priest in immaculate white robes sang two hymns and the whole congregation was held spellbound as his voice filled the little church. Plastic rosary beads were handed out to everyone, including us, and the service was over. The church is famous for its altar made almost entirely of shells and mother of pearl, but it was a nice to find it is also part of the community and not just a tourist attraction.
On to Cape Levique, and we were lucky enough to find we had a western facing campsite, and were able to watch the sunset turn the rocks a deep deep red. As the sun set the moon, which is full tomorrow, rose and shone straight into our tent. However, there has been a down side to Cape Levique and that has been the 30+ knot winds which got up at about 3 am on the first night (and so did we, to check the tent) and have hardly died down since. I found it quite alarming being rocked by the gale which made the car sway from side to side,and had to get reassurance from Nick that the car and tent wouldn't tip over. We do wonder if in a sudden gust the whole apparatus will snap shut and we'll be a tent sandwhich though. But at least we were too high for the tent to fill with sand/dust, which happened to our neighbours. Apparantly the wind will die when Perth gets a good bit of low pressure (sorry to be sending you bad weather wishes down south).
It's a friendly campsite, and each night we've built a fire in the BBQ (a big pile of wood nearby with a Beware of Snakes sign) and have chatted into the small hours (ie 9 pm bedtime). A very useful way of getting to know the best things to see and places to stay, and also the condition of the roads. I'm amazed by the whole Grey Nomad thing, and not a little impressed. I'd thought that grey nomads just took off in smart caravans and ventured from one powered site to another. But there are also those who have been travelling for months, following the warm weather in an anti-clockwise direction to us. They are the true nomads, staying sometimes for weeks in a spot they like, particularly if the fishing is good, and know a thing or too about surviving both the dirt roads, and camp life (have picked up some good recipes for camp-oven scones and the best batter to fry your freshly caught fish in - a recipe I fear we won't manage to use...).
Yesterday we tagged along on a tag-along tour - six 4WD vehicles, with Eric guiding us - an Aboriginal whose great grandfather hailed from Manchester. Because Cape Levique is Aboriginal owned he was able to take us to places that we wouldn't normally have access to, and a lot of soft-sand driving was involved. Great fun, but quite skiddy and slidey and we had to lower the pressure in our tires. The scenery was truly breathtaking, he took us to pristine beaches where we snorkelled and tried our hand at fishing - Nick got the hang of casting into the sea eventually, whirling the line round like a lasso, but I just hooked my own hat. No fish though. We finished with a meal of billy tea, damper (Eric claimed his wife had made it, but it was suspiciously uniform and round, and came in plastic bags) and BBQd turtle. I tried some and it was delicious, a bit like chicken, but wasn't at all sure if ethically I liked eating it. Today we've tried unsucessfully to dodge the wind, and will be heading out and north tomorrow. Several fellow campers are also leaving, as there seems to be no sign of the wind abating yet.
We'll travel along the Gibb River Road for two weeks, into the Kimberely, the idea for this part of the journey was the seed that germinated into our own grey nomadic experience.
On to Cape Levique, and we were lucky enough to find we had a western facing campsite, and were able to watch the sunset turn the rocks a deep deep red. As the sun set the moon, which is full tomorrow, rose and shone straight into our tent. However, there has been a down side to Cape Levique and that has been the 30+ knot winds which got up at about 3 am on the first night (and so did we, to check the tent) and have hardly died down since. I found it quite alarming being rocked by the gale which made the car sway from side to side,and had to get reassurance from Nick that the car and tent wouldn't tip over. We do wonder if in a sudden gust the whole apparatus will snap shut and we'll be a tent sandwhich though. But at least we were too high for the tent to fill with sand/dust, which happened to our neighbours. Apparantly the wind will die when Perth gets a good bit of low pressure (sorry to be sending you bad weather wishes down south).
It's a friendly campsite, and each night we've built a fire in the BBQ (a big pile of wood nearby with a Beware of Snakes sign) and have chatted into the small hours (ie 9 pm bedtime). A very useful way of getting to know the best things to see and places to stay, and also the condition of the roads. I'm amazed by the whole Grey Nomad thing, and not a little impressed. I'd thought that grey nomads just took off in smart caravans and ventured from one powered site to another. But there are also those who have been travelling for months, following the warm weather in an anti-clockwise direction to us. They are the true nomads, staying sometimes for weeks in a spot they like, particularly if the fishing is good, and know a thing or too about surviving both the dirt roads, and camp life (have picked up some good recipes for camp-oven scones and the best batter to fry your freshly caught fish in - a recipe I fear we won't manage to use...).
Yesterday we tagged along on a tag-along tour - six 4WD vehicles, with Eric guiding us - an Aboriginal whose great grandfather hailed from Manchester. Because Cape Levique is Aboriginal owned he was able to take us to places that we wouldn't normally have access to, and a lot of soft-sand driving was involved. Great fun, but quite skiddy and slidey and we had to lower the pressure in our tires. The scenery was truly breathtaking, he took us to pristine beaches where we snorkelled and tried our hand at fishing - Nick got the hang of casting into the sea eventually, whirling the line round like a lasso, but I just hooked my own hat. No fish though. We finished with a meal of billy tea, damper (Eric claimed his wife had made it, but it was suspiciously uniform and round, and came in plastic bags) and BBQd turtle. I tried some and it was delicious, a bit like chicken, but wasn't at all sure if ethically I liked eating it. Today we've tried unsucessfully to dodge the wind, and will be heading out and north tomorrow. Several fellow campers are also leaving, as there seems to be no sign of the wind abating yet.
We'll travel along the Gibb River Road for two weeks, into the Kimberely, the idea for this part of the journey was the seed that germinated into our own grey nomadic experience.
Pics: Church, Beagle Bay
Sunset, Cape Levique
1 comment:
Hope your journey continues to be as good as the blogs.
Happy Birthday Gill for Saturday. Have a good one where ever you are.
Love Claire & Ian
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