On to Darwin, which is the northern most part of our safari. Because the temperatures were still in the upper 30s we continued with the motel theme, and found a whole apartment in a motel that even had a swimming pool on the ground floor, for the price of a Travelodge room in the UK. We once more emptied the car and washed and dusted it, and were astonished at how much we pack into one car – we seemed to fill most of the apartment. We’d booked the car in for its 90,000 km service, and were a bit nervous that they’d find something dire that would need spare parts that would take 3 weeks to arrive by road-train. So we felt very relieved when we were told that the Prado was ‘in prime condition’. In fact we felt absurdly proud of the car after all we’ve put it through, rather like parents given a good report of their child at a parents’ evening at school. To celebrate Nick took me out to dinner at Chars restaurant (recommended by a colleague) where we had a wonderful meal outside under trees hung with lights, the balmy humid air reminding us of Bangkok (only about 10 degrees cooler). Putting together something to wear that was suitable for a smartish restaurant wasn’t easy, as we are somewhat sartorially challenged at this stage. Top half no problem, bottom half Nick wore camping trousers with the zip-on attachable legs, and I wore slightly dusty black jeans and trainers, being the only shoes that complied with the ‘no thongs’ policy (couldn’t bring myself to clump up in my mud-coloured Crocs).
We were really taken with Darwin, which was completely rebuilt after Cyclone Tracey tore through it on Christmas Day 1974, and has a lively tropical feel about it. We were both keen to see the Cyclone Tracey exhibit at the Museum and Art Gallery, but in fact were a little disappointed with it - as Nick said there weren’t enough personal stories to flesh out the photos. However, I enjoyed the modern Aboriginal art in the Gallery section, a lot more innovative and unusual than the ‘tourist’ art in so many shops in Australia. Having seen quite a lot of rock art at various sites by this time, it was also interesting to see a replica of the oldest known rock painting, which depicts an animal that has been extinct for 46,000 years – astounding thought.
After Darwin we did a small detour to Litchfield Park, which some people prefer to the Kakadu. We spent the day driving between waterfalls and pools and had a nice couple of swims in rock pools en route. That night we were back to bush camping, and drove for an hour or two down a delightful little track to Surprise Falls. I think the surprise was the number of flies, which had us fleeing the campsite before 8 the next morning. But although the falls were just trickles, in the evening we climbed up to them and had a wonderful pool to ourselves, where we toasted the sunset with a couple of cold beers. Another scary Scrabble game when a spider again legged it across the board (what is it with these literary Territorian arachnids?). Nick’s shout of “Watch Out!” scared me almost more than the spider, but at least this time I managed not to tip the board over.
The next day it was on to Katherine Gorge, where we took another boat trip (Katherine was 40C, so again it was essential to be on the water) which took us down three parts of this stunning gorge. During The Wet all parts form one big body of water, but by now we had to get out and walk to boats on each part of the gorge.And then it truly was time to begin the journey south, and home. Our drive to Alice Springs took us a day and a half (we managed to drive nearly 800 km on the first day). We camped at Wycliffe Wells, which has the distinction of totting up the most UFO sightings of anywhere in the world. They certainly capitalize on this theme, with spaceships and little green men all over the park (I saw one tearful little girl having to be reassured by her father at bedtime that spacemen really weren’t going to come and get her in the night). The owner told us that they see UFOs every few nights – he described in thrilling detail a few sightings he and his wife have had recently and although I think it would be arrogant to believe we’re the only ones out there, it did seem a little odd that this tiny corner of the world should clock up so many spaceships. However, good on that bloke, it’s very good for business and he tells it well. As you can imagine, I was beside myself with excitement at the thought of my first UFO sighting, and woke up regularly in the night to peer out of the tent, but alas, no extra-terrestrial visitors that night. Next week 28 people arrive from California to make a documentary – wonder if they’ll be luckier? I wanted to stay on another night, but Nick dragged me reluctantly away next morning as it really was time to head for home.
We were really taken with Darwin, which was completely rebuilt after Cyclone Tracey tore through it on Christmas Day 1974, and has a lively tropical feel about it. We were both keen to see the Cyclone Tracey exhibit at the Museum and Art Gallery, but in fact were a little disappointed with it - as Nick said there weren’t enough personal stories to flesh out the photos. However, I enjoyed the modern Aboriginal art in the Gallery section, a lot more innovative and unusual than the ‘tourist’ art in so many shops in Australia. Having seen quite a lot of rock art at various sites by this time, it was also interesting to see a replica of the oldest known rock painting, which depicts an animal that has been extinct for 46,000 years – astounding thought.
After Darwin we did a small detour to Litchfield Park, which some people prefer to the Kakadu. We spent the day driving between waterfalls and pools and had a nice couple of swims in rock pools en route. That night we were back to bush camping, and drove for an hour or two down a delightful little track to Surprise Falls. I think the surprise was the number of flies, which had us fleeing the campsite before 8 the next morning. But although the falls were just trickles, in the evening we climbed up to them and had a wonderful pool to ourselves, where we toasted the sunset with a couple of cold beers. Another scary Scrabble game when a spider again legged it across the board (what is it with these literary Territorian arachnids?). Nick’s shout of “Watch Out!” scared me almost more than the spider, but at least this time I managed not to tip the board over.
The next day it was on to Katherine Gorge, where we took another boat trip (Katherine was 40C, so again it was essential to be on the water) which took us down three parts of this stunning gorge. During The Wet all parts form one big body of water, but by now we had to get out and walk to boats on each part of the gorge.And then it truly was time to begin the journey south, and home. Our drive to Alice Springs took us a day and a half (we managed to drive nearly 800 km on the first day). We camped at Wycliffe Wells, which has the distinction of totting up the most UFO sightings of anywhere in the world. They certainly capitalize on this theme, with spaceships and little green men all over the park (I saw one tearful little girl having to be reassured by her father at bedtime that spacemen really weren’t going to come and get her in the night). The owner told us that they see UFOs every few nights – he described in thrilling detail a few sightings he and his wife have had recently and although I think it would be arrogant to believe we’re the only ones out there, it did seem a little odd that this tiny corner of the world should clock up so many spaceships. However, good on that bloke, it’s very good for business and he tells it well. As you can imagine, I was beside myself with excitement at the thought of my first UFO sighting, and woke up regularly in the night to peer out of the tent, but alas, no extra-terrestrial visitors that night. Next week 28 people arrive from California to make a documentary – wonder if they’ll be luckier? I wanted to stay on another night, but Nick dragged me reluctantly away next morning as it really was time to head for home.
Pics: The simple life: One pan, two spoons
Little green men at Wycliffe campsite
The Devil's Marbles, near Wycliffe
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